The word “luxury” denotes a richness that derives from excess—an item gorgeous to behold, our special feelings when wearing such an item, our psychological satisfaction at its high refinement. Today, we know lives of material plenty as a result of industrial development. We also face the hard challenges of the global problems our materialistic way of life has created. In these circumstances, our views of luxury, as a manifestation of the richness we desire, are changing dramatically. 

This exhibition examines our changing times and values from the perspective of luxury, through fashion—a field that sensitively reflects human desire and the trends of society. Featured are some 100 fashion creations from the collection of The Kyoto Costume Institute (KCI), dating from the 17th century to current times, carefully selected from multiple perspectives and representing everything from visual luxury to a more personal, intellectual luxury, closer to the spirit of play. 

Ostentation

Pascal declared, "to be spruce is to show one's power." One of the aims of clothing is to flaunt wealth and power. The act of adorning oneself with rare and costly materials arguably represents this eternal human desire, while history has proven that this insatiable passion for adornment has supported and nurtured craftsmen and stimulated the arts and industry.  "Ostentation," the theme of this section, focuses on garments featuring a lavish use of gold and silver thread, and sumptuous dresses representing hundreds of hours of labor and handiwork. 

Main exhibits: 

Bodice gifted to Elizabeth I (17th Century), Dress (robe à la française madeof silk brocade (18th Century), Reception dress by MaisonWorth (c.1900), Party costume for la 1002enuit by Paul Poiret(1910s), MaisonWorth, Chanel (1920s), Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior (1940-50s), Roy Lichtenstein, Pierre Cardin, Courrègesand Yves Saint Laurent (1960s), Chanel (Karl Lagerfeld), Thierry Mugler(1980-90s), Balenciaga (Nicolas Ghesquière), Louis Vuitton(Marc Jacobs) and Viktor& Rolf (2000-) High resolution images of 15 works, presented by PLAYSTATION 3

Less is more 

Although people in the past tended to favor clothing that was showy and glamorous, the tendency in the modern age has been to avoid excessive glamour, and instead to prefer simplicity. This tendency has been particularly pronounced with the current and strong demand for comfort and function in design. However, garments that are simple and yet make the wearer appear beautiful require designs that create shape, the appropriate fabrics, and outstanding skills on the part of the creator. This section showcases haute couture, the epitome of simplified design, quality, and exquisite craftsmanship as seen in Chanel's functional ensembles and Balenciaga's architectural dresses. 

Main exhibits: 

Paul Poiret (1910-1920s), Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet (1920-1930s), Grès, Christian Dior, Balenciaga, and Courrèges 

Clothes are free-spirited 

A Tokyo Culture Creation Project Luxury in fashion Reconsidered: 

Special Exhibit 

Kazuyo Sejima Spatial Design for Comme des Garçons 

Luxury is not simply about material and financial wealth. A designer attempts to create a garment that has never been seen before. A wearer encounters that garment, and becomes the receptor of the passion that the designer has directed into that garment. The intense relationship that is generated between the designer and the wearer that surrounds the act of "wearing" is a form of "mental" luxury. This section examines the relationship between clothing and luxury by featuring the designs of Rei Kawakubo who subverted conventional values surrounding "beauty" and "sophistication.“ 

Main exhibits: 

Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo)(1980s-), Photo of exhibit works by Naoya Hatakeyama. 

Uniqueness 

Although everyone accepts that rarity in itself adds value, what constitutes rarity for someone may not apply to another. Even objects in everyday life can become "unique" if placed within a completely different context. This is particularly relevant in today's society, with the growing move away from mass-consumerism. This section features one-off garments by Maison Martin Margiela that represent contemporary concepts of luxury, such as "one-off," "recyclability," and "hand-made. “ 

Main exhibits: 

Artisanal collection  by Maison Martin Margiela (1990s-)